How to tell something is wrong
The obvious signs are a head that waters the sidewalk instead of the grass, one that does not pop up, or a zone that runs but leaves the lawn dry. Puddles that sit after a normal cycle and valves that keep running after they should have shut off are the other common ones.
Soil matters when you read a wet spot. Slidell soils around Denton are moderately well drained but very slowly permeable, so water that cannot soak in will pool or run off. A soggy patch does not automatically mean a broken pipe. We look at how the zone is set and where the water is going before we start chasing a leak. A zone that will not come on at all is a separate problem, covered below.
Heads and nozzles
Most of our calls start at the head. A clogged nozzle throws a bad pattern or too little water, even when the head pops up fine. We remove the clogged nozzles and screens, rinse them, flush the zone, and reinstall them. That often restores coverage without new parts.
A head that is cracked, sunk, or chewed up by a mower is cheaper to replace than to fight with. Replacing a head runs $65 to $90.

Valves and the diaphragm
Each zone has a valve that opens when the controller sends a signal and closes when the run time ends. If it will not open, the zone stays dead. If it will not close, the zone keeps running.
The usual culprit is debris or damage on the diaphragm inside the valve. We shut off the water supply to the valve, open it, and inspect the diaphragm. Cleaning it fixes some valves. If the diaphragm is worn or torn, we replace the valve.
Valve repair or replacement runs $75 to $300.
When a zone will not run
It is tempting to blame the controller, but we check in order. First, whether the controller is actually sending a signal to the zone. Second, the wire connections. Third, the solenoid on the valve. Working in that order finds the fault without swapping parts we do not need to touch.
The median home in Denton dates to about 1995, so many of these systems have a lot of years on them. Old wire connections and solenoids are where we look first on a zone that has gone quiet.
After a hailstorm
Denton has had hail large enough to damage thousands of homes. Controllers and other above-ground irrigation equipment sit in the open and take those hits. After a severe storm, walk the yard and look at the controller housing, exposed valve parts and heads for dents, cracks or anything knocked out of position. If anything looks off, we will check the zones it serves.
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Getting Started Is Simple
Put simply, the steps run roughly like this:
- Check controller output, wire connections, and solenoid operation when a zone fails to activate.
- At spring startup, slowly pressurize the system, check each zone for leaks and damage, adjust heads, and set the seasonal controller schedule.
Reach us at (940) 304-8736, and you'll get a straight answer.
Updated October 2026